In the era of social media, where digital imagery reigns supreme, Yanzhu explores the possibilities of merging the digital and tangible within the post-internet landscape. This project discusses the beauty of mundane moments captured through the lens of analog cameras. It’s a collection of imitation gemstones, produced by 3D printing technology — Polyjet. The design was inspired by a common technique in gemstones treatments: foiling. Instead of using a sheet of foil, Yanzhu chose to use photography. The deliberate choice of analog photography as the medium for capturing these moments was intentional, representing a departure from the instant gratification and perfectionism often associated with digital imagery. The Past Within Now project seeks to challenge the notion of what constitutes valuable memory in a society increasingly obsessed with the digital ephemeral.
Yanzhu Lin is an Antwerp-based jewellery designer with a background in engineering and gemology. Yanzhu draws inspiration from parametric design, 3D printing technology, and traditional metalsmithing techniques. Her work explores the possibilities of collaboration between humans and machines in the Digital Age, while investigating the irreplaceable nature of human experience.
CO: What ideas or themes inspire your work?
YL: Science, technology, traditional metalsmithing, gemstones, and stone setting were the ingredients, and I was figuring out a recipe there. The contemplation of ‘what is reality’ and the imaginative depictions of the future in science fiction have greatly inspired me. As our reality becomes increasingly digitised, I keep a close eye on technological developments, viewing them as reflections of our times. Meanwhile, with the rise of AI, I am particularly focused on the ‘irreplaceability’ of (jewellery) artists, which constantly brings me back to the concept of ‘humanity.’ I’ve taught myself parametric design, which involves creating programs that generate different 3D models by altering parameters. This process forces me to think about the constants and variables in the creative process, blending technology and art in a way that continues to captivate me.
In the project The Past Within Now, the emerald-cut Polyjet gemstone was generated using a parametric design program. In this program, factors such as crown angle, table percentages, and girdle thickness can all be controlled through parameters. The aim is to minimise the impact of rounded facet edges on the faceting during the 3D printing process. Besides that, I think stone setting is a form of engineering that still holds many possibilities.
CO: What are the biggest challenges you face in your practice?
YL: Everyone says to step out of your comfort zone, but they never tell you how far to go. At the beginning of this project, I was exploring the question of ‘what is reality.’ At that time, I was attempting to create virtual jewellery using mixed reality technology, but the discussion and methods around this technology were completely uncharted territory for me—I felt like I was flying at supersonic speed away from my comfort zone. I made many tryouts but still felt confused. In the end, I chose traditional metalsmithing techniques because, in a familiar field, I have my own criteria and a clearer understanding of ‘how I want it to look.’ I think my solution might still be to step out of my comfort zone, but one foot at a time.
CO: Could you describe your approach within the broader jewellery and craft field?
YL: Finding variables and constants. In this project, the variables are the form of the jewellery (necklace or brooch), the photos inside the gemstones, the pixel grids designed based on the gemstone contents (shape and colour), and the arrangement of the gemstones. The constants are the airbrush painting style, the stone setting, gemstone size, and the theme The Past Within Now. During the design process, I referenced many fine jewellery designs and applied some fine jewellery design principles to highlight and accentuate the beauty of the gemstones. Additionally, I drew inspiration from historical designs related to portrait diamonds and foiling.
Contemporary jewellery often discusses how to break boundaries, but in this project, I was more focused on figuring out why the boundaries between art jewellery and fine jewellery are this noticeable. This is not only my attempt to combine art and technology; I am also curious about how to mend the boundaries between contemporary jewellery and other types of jewellery, such as fine jewellery, commercial jewellery, costume jewellery and so on.
Instagram @p.f.w.f.p
All featured images are courtesy of the artist.
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